Field Notes
The Oblique Route Blog:
Destination Guides, Trip Reports, & Travel Tips
How to See Angkor Wat by Bicycle: A Self-Guided Itinerary
Most people who visit Angkor Wat pay up to $70 a day for a driver to take them around the same well-worn circuit to the same crowded sites that everyone else sees.
There’s a better way. A way that is cheaper, more flexible, and more rewarding. For just a few dollars, you can rent a bike and see all the famous ruins at your own pace as well as some others that the group tours rarely stop at, all while avoiding the worst of the crowds.
Here’s how to do it.
The Ultimate 10-day Kyushu Road Trip Itinerary
Kyushu never gets the attention that Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka do, but for those in the know, this can easily be one of the most rewarding places in the country to explore. Japan's third-largest island is where you go when you've already done the so-called “golden route” and you're ready for something with more texture and room to breathe. I’m talking volcanic calderas, hidden onsen villages, a mythological gorge, and a coastline that changes character every hour or two of driving. It's also, incidentally, one of the best road trip destinations in the entire country, the kind of place that begs to be explored by car. The expressways are excellent, the mountain roads are genuinely fun to drive, and unlike Honshu's big cities, a car here is an asset rather than a liability.
The Ultimate 2-Week “Active Travel” Itinerary for South Korea
When you think of "active travel destinations" South Korea might not be the first country that comes to mind. But with its mountainous terrain and hundreds of kilometers of well-maintained bike touring routes, Korea actually has a lot to offer travelers seeking some outdoor adventure. There's a lot of natural beauty packed into this little peninsula, and the best way to see it is from a national park trail or the saddle of a road bike.
This itinerary pairs hiking in Seoraksan National Park with four days of cycling along the Jeju Fantasy Bike Path, plus built-in days for rest, recovery, and exploration in Sokcho, Jeju, and Seoul.
Taipei, Taiwan: A Complete City Guide
Taipei doesn't always get the credit it deserves. Overshadowed in the popular imagination by Tokyo and Seoul, it tends to fly under the radar for first-time visitors to East Asia — and that, frankly, is their loss. Taiwan's capital is a city of genuine depth and character: a fascinating blend of Chinese, Japanese, and distinctly Taiwanese cultural influences layered over a dynamic modern metropolis. The food alone would justify the trip. But Taipei rewards the curious traveler well beyond the dinner table. Every time I visit, I inevitably leave wishing I'd stayed longer.
A Foodie’s Guide to Osaka — “The Kitchen of Japan”
Osaka is arguably the best food city in Japan, which by extension makes it one of the best food cities in the world. In fact, the Japanese have a nickname for Osaka — Tenka no Daidokoro (天下の台所), or “The Kitchen of the Nation.” While it originally referred to the city's role in the trade of ingredients like rice and dashi, it is now primarily used to celebrate Osaka’s vibrant street food culture and its reputation as a gastronomic playground. If you’re planning your first trip to Osaka, let this guide serve as your introduction to the city’s most iconic dishes. Follow my tips and you too can take part in the time-honored Osakan tradition of Kuidaore (食い倒れ) — “eat until you drop!”
Essential Hong Kong: A Complete Travel Guide
Hong Kong is one of those cities that grabs you immediately and doesn't let go. I've visited multiple times over the years, and it never gets old — stepping off the MTR into the humidity and noise and sheer density of it, looking up at a skyline that seems to defy physics, smelling roast meat and diesel and the sharp salt of dried seafood from a wet market stall all at once. Few cities in the world pack as much into such a small space: world-class food, dramatic urban landscapes, colonial history, bustling markets, serene hiking trails, and outlying islands that feel a world away from the urban rush. The contrast is what makes it extraordinary. You can hike a quiet ridge trail in the morning with the South China Sea spread out below you, and be eating Michelin-starred roast goose over rice at a no-frills lunch counter by noon. That kind of range, compressed into a city of this size, is genuinely rare. These are my recommendations for getting the most out of this extraordinary city.
Useful Mobile Apps for Your Trip to South Korea
Planning a trip to South Korea? The apps you rely on at home don’t always work the same way here. This guide covers the local apps that make getting around and navigating daily life much easier.
Cycling South Korea’s Jeju Island
Every Korean knows that Jeju Island is special – for Korean nationals, it has long been the go-to domestic holiday destination. However, Jeju still flies under the radar for many international travelers. I’ve now been to Jeju seven times and counting, and I keep going back because in a country that feels largely homogeneous, Jeju is distinct. On this particular trip, I had the opportunity to see the island from a whole new perspective – on two wheels, from the saddle of my Trek Domane AL 2 road bike. For active, adventurous travelers who want an immersive experience that is truly off the beaten path, a cycling tour along the Jeju Fantasy Bike Path is one of the most authentic and rewarding ways to explore this remarkable island.
Hoi An, Vietnam: An Expert’s Guide
Hoi An might be my favorite place in all of Southeast Asia. Few destinations can match its combination of charm and atmosphere—the lantern-lit streets of the UNESCO-listed Old Town, one of the world's best-preserved examples of a 15th-century trading port, are genuinely unlike anywhere else on earth. But Hoi An rewards more than just wandering the old quarter—An Bang Beach, surrounding rice paddies and vegetable gardens, and some of the best food and coffee in all of Vietnam are all within easy reach. Shockingly affordable and endlessly diverse, it's a place I keep coming back to.
Bali Beyond the Beaches
If ever there was a quintessential tropical paradise, surely Bali is it. But amid an explosion in popularity in recent years, Bali is changing. As development increases and tourist numbers rise, you may be wondering—is Bali still worth it? It turns out—yes, not only is it possible to find the quiet serenity and natural beauty that made this island famous, but with a little insider knowledge, it’s actually quite easy.
Let’s start the conversation
Whether you have a fully formed trip idea or just a vague sense that you'd like to go somewhere new — I'd love to hear from you. There are no silly questions and no obligation. Just send me a message and I'll be in touch within 48 hours to start the conversation.