Hoi An, Vietnam: An Expert’s Guide
Hoi An might be my favorite place in all of Southeast Asia. Few destinations can match its combination of charm and atmosphere—the lantern-lit streets of the UNESCO-listed Old Town, one of the world's best-preserved examples of a 15th-century trading port, are genuinely unlike anywhere else on earth. But Hoi An rewards more than just wandering the old quarter—An Bang Beach, surrounding rice paddies and vegetable gardens, and some of the best food and coffee in all of Vietnam are all within easy reach. Shockingly affordable and endlessly diverse, it's a place I keep coming back to.
Things to do in Hoi An
Wander around Old Town
The iconic mustard-yellow buildings of Old Town are Hoi An’s defining feature. Among the vibrant, colorful ancient streets and narrow, crooked alleys, you’ll find an endless array of artisan shops, hidden temples and shrines, an open-air market, cozy cafes, and restaurants. Don’t forget your camera—this place is incredibly photogenic.
Cycle through the countryside and Tra Que Vegetable Village
A gardener at Tra Que Vegetable Village taking a break from her labor.
A bicycle is one of the most popular ways to get around Hoi An and the surrounding area. In fact, many Hoi An hotels and resorts have a fleet of bicycles available for guests to use freely. The area around town is very flat and very cycle-friendly. You can either arrange a guided cycle tour or simply head out to explore on your own. Venture a little ways outside of Old Town and you’ll discover some quintessential Vietnam countryside—think rice paddies and palm trees. About halfway between Old Town and An Bang beach is Tra Que Vegetable Village, which is well worth a visit.
Take a cooking class
Stir-fried chicken and basil made during a cooking class at Kumquat Restaurant
If you ask me, central Vietnam (and Quảng Nam Province in particular), is where you’ll find the best food in Vietnam. A cooking class is a great way to experience that culinary culture up close and in depth. Many cooking classes also include a guided tour of a local market, where you can learn about the regional ingredients that make Hoi An’s cuisine so special.
Half-day trip to My Son Sanctuary
The ruins of My Song Sanctuary at sunrise
If you’re going to do one excursion that’s a little beyond the boundaries of Hoi An proper, this is the one I would recommend. At My Son, you can see the ruins of an ancient Hindu temple constructed by the people of the Champa Kingdom, who reigned in this region from the fourth until the 13th century. It’s the perfect place to learn a bit about the history of Vietnam. The ruins themselves are reminiscent of those at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, albeit on a smaller scale. The best time to visit is early morning for sunrise, and some tours offer the option to return to Hoi An by river boat. If you’re interested in historical sites, My Son Sanctuary shouldn’t be missed.
Get some custom-tailored clothing
Hoi An is a mecca for tailoring. As you explore Old Town, you will see countless tailoring shops with handsomely bedecked mannequins facing the street. These shops can custom-make all manner of bespoke pieces of clothing for both men and women, and they can do it for a fraction of the price that you’d pay back home. Whether it’s a formal three-piece suit, a casual sundress, or a pair of fashionable leather boots, the tailors of Hoi An have got you covered. Pro tip: If you’re overwhelmed with the sheer number of shops to choose from, and you don’t know where to start, ask your hotel staff for a recommendation.
Experience a lantern-making class
Paper lanterns are synonymous with Hoi An. They’re everywhere—another defining feature of the town. Lantern making is therefore one of the most popular cultural activities available in Hoi An. Many of these classes are held in small, open-air family studios, and, in addition to making lanterns, you’ll likely get some traditional herbal tea and a brief history lesson on why locals believe hanging lanterns brings luck and wealth. The best part: The lanterns are foldable, making them easy to take home as a souvenir. A handmade lantern glowing on your balcony back home is a genuinely special travel memento.
Relax at An Bang Beach
When you’re worn out from walking around Old Town and cycling the countryside, you can unwind with a cold Saigon beer or a fresh coconut straight from the shell on the soft sand of An Bang Beach, just a short distance from town. While destinations like Nha Trang and Phu Quoc receive a bulk of the attention among Vietnam’s beach-focused travelers, An Bang rivals those places in tropical beauty while having significantly fewer crowds.
Participate in a coffee workshop
I highly recommend experiencing Vietnam’s world-famous coffee culture with a hands-on workshop at one of Hoi An’s local roastery cafes, like Trí Long Coffee or Phin Coffee Restaurant. Salt coffee, egg coffee, and coconut coffee are among the unique specialty styles you can explore. You’ll likely leave the experience with a satisfying caffeine buzz, some newly learned brewing techniques, and maybe some local beans to take home.
Pop in to the Precious Heritage Art Gallery Museum
Tucked away in the heart of Old Town, this stunning gallery is the life's work of French photographer Réhahn, who has spent years traveling Vietnam documenting the country's 54 officially recognized ethnic minority groups. The portraits are breathtaking—intimate, dignified, and deeply human. The museum is free to enter, which makes it one of the best deals in a town that's already famously affordable. Don't rush this one. Give yourself at least an hour to wander slowly and let the images sink in.
Places to Eat & Drink in Hoi An
When the sun goes down in Hoi An, The Hill Station is where I end up. A century-old shophouse, cold craft beer, great food, and that unmistakable Old Town atmosphere.
Quán Cao Lầu Thanh
Cao Lau — Hoi An’s signature dish
Cao lau is Hoi An’s signature dish—thick, chewy rice noodles, savory marinated pork, crispy crouton-like bits, and a light splash of intensely flavored broth. There are dozens of places to get cao lau in Hoi An, but this one is my personal favorite. A true local spot where you can get an authentic bowlful without paying the inflated tourist prices you’ll find elsewhere. When paired with an ice cold Saigon beer, this is about as “Hoi An” as it gets.
Madam Khanh – The Banh Mi Queen
Bánh mì is a well-known Vietnamese classic. Once again, there is no shortage of bánh mì places around town, and Madam Khanh is probably the most famous one. But it absolutely lives up to the hype. Warning: There may be a queue at peak times, but it usually moves pretty fast, and it’ll be worth the short wait. Trust me.
Đông Ốp La – Fried Egg, Beef Stew, Bun for breakfast
The bo kho bahn mi at Dong Op La. Dipping the crusty bread in that rich, flavorful broth is a guaranteed mouthgasm.
This place is the reason I often skip the hotel breakfast. Another true local spot, featuring plastic stools and low tables. The omelets are the most popular thing on the menu, but I personally recommend the bo kho báhn mì (beef stew with báhn mì bread). It’s incredible. But be warned: You’ll likely find yourself dreaming about this meal long after you’ve returned home.
Little Flower Restaurant
The cozy, lovable Little Flower Restaurant. Perhaps my most frequented Hoi An eatery.
This one is a bit outside of the main Old Town district, but it’s well worth the pleasant stroll or bike ride along the river to get there. The restaurant is run by the sweetest family, and it’s a great place to experience local dishes that are freshly and lovingly prepared. I personally recommend the bánh xèo (crispy, savory pancake). The relaxed neighborhood vibe is a nice contrast to the hustle and bustle of Old Town.
Mì Quảng 92
Mi Quang — the definitive dish of Quang Nam Province
While cao lau is Hoi An’s signature dish, Mi Quang is the definitive dish of the larger Quảng Nam Province and is ubiquitous throughout central Vietnam. Like cao lau, it is a noodle dish with a small amount of intensely flavored broth. The noodles are wide and flat, topped with pork, shrimp, quail eggs, crushed peanuts, and a crispy sesame rice cracker. I’ve tried a lot of Quan Mi places around town, and this one is my personal favorite. It is beloved by locals and visitors alike, and the prices are unbeatable.
The Hill Station Deli & Boutique
Happy hour at the Hill Station
If you’re in the mood for more familiar Western-style fare, Hill Station is my go-to recommendation. Set inside a gorgeous restored century-year-old house, its warm, inviting atmosphere perfectly complements its excellent and varied menu. If you’re a craft beer fan like I am, check out Half Station’s excellent happy hour deal: half price on locally brewed craft draughts. They also have an excellent wine selection.
7 Bridges Hoi An Craft Beer Taproom
Speaking of craft beer and western food, 7 Bridges is another excellent option. Their pizza is seriously good, and they feature a wide selection of top-tier Vietnamese craft beer. You have a choice of sitting on the terrace facing the street where you can watch the passing parade of tourists and locals, inside the cozy, wood-lined, dimly lit interior, or out back in their beautiful beer garden.
Trí Long Coffee
With so many gourmet coffee shops to choose from in Hoi An, it can be difficult to know where to start. Trí Long Coffee should be first on your list. They have all the Vietnamese coffee specialties (try the salt coffee!) as well as a nice little shop where you can buy their beans or a traditional phin coffee filter, as well as other knick-knacks and souvenirs. The cafe has a street-facing, open-air layout. It’s the perfect place to sit with a drink and a book, or to get some work done on your laptop. They also offer hands-on coffee-making workshops for those who want to dive deeper into Vietnamese coffee culture.
The Inner Hoian by Àla
Tucked back in a hidden courtyard in the heart of Old Town, The Inner Hoi An feels like a world apart, a quiet oasis sheltered from the midday tourist crowds. World-class gourmet coffee in beautiful surroundings, with both outdoor and indoor seating. If coffee isn’t your thing, they also have excellent matcha and fresh fruit juices available. The iced acafela is my personal favorite.
Things to Know Before You Go
The best time to visit Hoi An is from February to April, often called the "Golden Window." During these months, the weather is pleasantly warm but not scorching, humidity is low, and rainfall is minimal, making it ideal for walking the ancient streets or cycling through the countryside.
The nearest international airport is in Danang, about a 45-to 60-minute drive away from Old Town. The easiest way to reach Hoi An from the airport is via a private transfer service, which should cost 300,000–450,000 VND ($12–$18 USD). Another option is to use the Grab ride-hailing app.
